Car tuning tips and mods.

It can be quite time consuming to add a turbo charger to a NASP engine. The biggest problems include avoiding detonation, making space to join the turbo to the exhaust and sorting out the fuelling and mapping.

Although still a big job the remote turbo is being hailed as the simple bolt on solution for NASP engines.

A remote turbo, so called because of it’s remote location is generally fitted at the back of the car near or instead of the rear silencer. It can also be mounted part way along the exhaust but this can be prone to damage and reduces the cars ground clearance.

The remote location ensures that the exhaust gases are substantially cooler than they would be in the exhaust headers. Due to the catalyst and expansion box the exhaust gases are also flowing a little slower. These two factors make it a lot easier to add a remote turbo.

The lower boost they produce and cooler temperatures they run at help the simplify the installation. The long pipe run back to the air intake will act as an intercooler negating the need for an additional intercooler.

Your remote turbo will need a very good supply of oil and we would recommend fitting an oil pump and taking an oil feed from the engine sump. An inline oil cooler can help if temperature issues ensue.

Although remote turbo kits are available you can actually source suitable turbos from breakers yards and salvage agents. Go with a small turbo set to low boost with a wastegate and diverter valve for best results, unless you are prepared to lower the compression of the engine.

You will need to adjust the fuelling and the engine mapping to cope with the additional supply of air and this is best done on a rolling road.

Avoid detonation by running a low boost, using high octane fuel and adding a water injection system if you do not want the expense and inconvenience of a full engine rebuild.

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